The most awaited event of this seasons Haute Couture has been for sure for the debut of John Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela. Impossibile to find the complete video of the SS15 Haute Couture runway, but I managed to find the photographs of all the one-of-a-kind pieces. For sure, the best part of the whole runway would have been the appearance of Galliano, which unhappily I couldn’t find. I am relieved that the Artisanal collection has again demonstrated that the talent of Galliano is still alive. Since he has been Creative Director for 16 years at Christian Dior, it is easily noticeable that he used similar cuts to the jackets and also created his signature theatrical dresses. I must say that I am really happy that this great designer is back in the light, after the events that have brought him into the darkness. Loved and brought up by Anna Wintour, Galliano has finally found a company that thanks to him, could become one of the best Maison of Haute Couture in the world, at par with Dior and Chanel.
Regarding the other designers, the exasperated use of embroidered materials is always more utilized by companies like: Valentino, Elie Saab and Chakra. Infact, Valentino, once again has gone for classic cuts with sleeves and necklines varying in length. In the front row, as always, there was the Emperor Valentino Garavani, accompanied by Giancarlo Giametti and Carlos Souza.
Karl Lagerfeld, for his SS15 Haute Couture collection has created one of the best set desigs I have ever seen, the simultaneous opening of mechanic exotic flowers within the Gran Palais, was absolutely breath-taking. Karl covered the runway with jackets, skirts, sheath dresses, all fundamentally essential and linear, but always with vanguard cuts and meticulously sew by hand.
Giambattista Valli, Italian couturié now of French adhesion, has created dresses always more principesque give more importance to materials which are not embroided. Favouring organza and tulle, as you can easily see by looking at the runway photographs.
I am and have always been a big fan of Dior, but honestly in the last few year, I was always able to easily predict what would have walked down the runway (this year though couldn’t see the patent boots coming out, not something I would expect from a Haute Couture show). I would like to see Raf Simons challenging a bit more himself and creating a collection, where every single piece is unique, as all other designers previous to him, such as Saint Laurent, Bohan, Ferré and Galliano, used to do. Let’s see what he will have for us at the next runway in March.
Armani, always classic and elegant, re-proposes his classic ‘80s blazer in new and sophisticated cuts. Would kill for an outfit like this one.